Days 13–17

A ring route around the Posets massif taking in some of the Pyrenees’ highest passes and lakes, a descent to the humdrum Valle de Bielsa and a majestic day up and over to the Valle de Pineta.

Though second in elevation to its eastern neighbour the Maladeta massif, the Posets group is possibly even more scenic. While less popular among walkers, it's undeservedly so as opportunities for camping and day walks are almost limitless. The region is as easy to get to as any of the better known Pyrenean magnets and staff at the refugios of Estós and Viadós couldn't be more pleasant.

If you have an urge to linger an extra day at the Lago de la Escarpinosa, Batisielles, Granjas de Viadós or in the Vall de Pineta, go ahead and indulge it. West of the Posets Massif you'll be venturing into hard-core (literally and figuratively) Aragón. Gone are the meadows and forests of the central and eastern Pyrenees, which the porous, limestone rocks of the west usually refuse to support.

To explain the grading in the introductory box, the route around the Posets Massif as far as Vall de Batisielles (Days 13A, 14 and 15) is tough in terms of both altitude change and the duration of each walking day. You can, however, break the route up into shorter stages. Extra camp sites and refugios have been highlighted along the trail to allow for more flexibility in planning an itinerary.

Alternatively, you can save yourself a couple of days and a litre of two of sweat by following the GR11's gentle, attractive but much less dramatic walk up the Vall de Estós (see Day 13B). If you aren't camping, this might be your preferred option anyway, as Day 14 of the longer route offers only rudimentary shelter.

From the Barranco de Estós it's easy-medium all the way to the Vall de Pineta, except for a final steep ascent over scree to the Puerto de Gistaín (Day 15). The descent from below the Lago Ordiceto to Parzán in the Vall de Bielsa (Day 16) is not difficult in any way, just tediously long at the end of the day.

Posets Massif
(Days 13 to 17 of the Pyrenean Traverse)

Maps

When to Walk

What to Bring

WARNING

Places to Stay & Eat

Getting To/From the Walk

The Walk (see map 4, map 5, map 6)
Day 13A: Benasque to Refugio Ángel Orus
4½ hours, 10.5km

     From Benasque, cross the ring road to follow a quiet, leafy lane called the Carretera de Anciles to Anciles. It's worth taking an early break to explore the village with its 17th and 18th century houses roofed in the local slate. On the west side of this charming hamlet, follow the initially cobbled track – a continuation of the main street – which leaves the village and continues past a couple of flowing fuentes. Pick up the yellow-and-white trail markers which lead along a shady lane through hayfields to a bridge over the Río Ésera near a power plant.
      You should be in Eriste (1118m) within an hour. Go through the central square, to the left of the church and up to the top of the village. The trail which you follow into the ravine is signed ‘Camino de la Montaña: Refugio Forcau’ (a less common name for Refugio Ángel Orus).
      Just less than another hour brings you to the old Puente de Tramarrius (1245m). Cross to the east (true left) bank of the river and ascend it to meet a 4WD track. The path marked on the Editorial Alpina map paralleling the river and this dirt track is strictly nostalgic. Once you've found the 4WD track, continue upstream along it.
      Count on a bit more than another hour, or a total of two hours from Eriste, past an abandoned pyrite mine to reach the Cascada de la Espiantosa (1505m), an impressive waterfall. The area around the falls makes an excellent lunch stop before continuing the ascent. Cross the nearby Puente de la Espiantosa – a mundane concrete bridge which can't compare with the magnificent arch of the Puente de Tramarrius earlier. A sign above the car park gives an accurate duration of 1½ hours to the Ángel Orus refugio.
      Wild flowers in this region are every bit as spectacular as they are further east and there's even the odd rhododendron bush in the canyon. But already the terrain is harsher, the forests sparser and more coniferous and the low-altitude vegetation has become decidedly scrubby.
      Within 20 minutes the path levels out briefly. Complete the fourth hour of walking by arriving at the Pleta de les Riberes (1815m), with a domed cabaña and possible camp site. (‘Pleta' in these parts means a place where the animals spend the night. Make of that what you will!)
      A fork to the left (following a sign on a tree) takes you via an upland meadow to the Refugio Ángel Orus (Tel: 974 34 40 44) at 2100m, with room for 50. You normally need to reserve ahead (essential at weekends) as it's the most popular base camp for an assault on Posets mountain. It's also the only accommodation other than stark huts for noncampers walking this side of the massif.

Day 13B: Benasque to Refugio de Estós
3½ to 4 hours, 12.5km

     By taking this easy walk up the Valle de Estós to the refugio of the same name, you can bypass the Posets circuit (Day 13A to the early part of Day 15). It's a well trodden route – 4WD track for the most part – popular with day-trippers from Benasque. You can either savour a short stage and overnight at the Refugio de Estós, where you rejoin the main route, or continue to the Refugio de Viadós a further 11km (four to five hours) away.
      Leave Benasque by the sealed road heading north to La Besurta. The Valle de Estós takes off north-west from the Río Ésera at the Puente de San Jaime, 4km north of town. After passing the small dam at its head, cross the Palanca de Aiguacari (where ‘palanca' in Aragonese means bridge) onto the true right bank. Shortly beyond a pair of green metal gates is the Cabaña de Santa Ana, once a chapel, which can accommodate 12 for a Spartan overnight stay. Soon the steepness abates and the valley broadens into fine meadows interspersed with hazel, ash and beech trees.
      Forty five minutes or so from the Puente de San Jaime, pause to refill your water supplies – and if the season's right, munch a few wild strawberries at the Fuente Corona. At a junction 10 minutes later, take the right fork signed ‘Refugio de Estós, 1½ hours’. Continue walking for a further hour until the 4WD track dwindles to a broad footpath just after passing a small, locked cabin. The track crosses the river to the true left bank by another wooden bridge.
      Forty five minutes later, after a final 10 to 15 minutes of steep climb, you reach the Refugio de Estós with its welcome terrace and icy-cold drinks. For details of accommodation and the route onward to the Refugio de Viadós, see Day 15.

Day 14: Refugio Ángel Orus to Valle de Batisielles
      6 to 7 hours, 9km

     This is a long day. However, if the mood takes you there are a couple of spectacular spots en route where you can break off to camp.
      Continue north-west from the refugio, passing after 15 minutes the spring which supplies it. The path, ill-defined as it crosses a mixture of grassy slope and scree, is lightly cairned. After climbing 230 vertical metres and crossing the Torrente de Llardaneta, it reaches the Cabaña de Llardana, which accommodates four plus baggage and has abundant water from nearby seeps. You'll also find space to pitch a tent nearby. Bear north-east over turfed-in boulders (somewhat to the west of the route indicated by Editorial Alpina) until you overlook the double Lago de las Alforjas (2400m). Descending, you should reach fording points at the outlet to the lake 1¼ to 1½ hours past the cabaña.
      Alforjas is one of a dozen or more lakes tucked around the eastern and southern slopes of the just visible Posets and Bardamina crests. There are two to three good camp sites along the canal between the lake's two sections. From the lake, allow 1¼ hours to reach the obvious Collado de la Piana (2660m), which is just north of Pico de Escorvets (2902m). The often frozen tarn of La Piana below the saddle should help you locate it, assisted by a few cairns along the way. From Collado de la Piana there are magnificent views.
      The descent to Lago de la Tartera de Perramó takes about 1¼ hours. From the pass, head south-east and don't be seduced into following cairns which lead further north towards tarns in front of the Agujas de Perramó mountain.
      Though the route is downhill much of the way from the col onwards, it's surprisingly demanding. A tough 1¼ to 1½ hours separate the Lago de la Tartera de Perramó from the Lago de la Escarpinosa (2040m). Much of that time is spent wriggling between granite slabs and wrestling with rhododendrons. There are several camp sites by each of the Perramó lakes.
      The Lago de Escarpinosa, where the grass is limited but luxuriant, is a justifiably popular spot for an overnight camp. From here, the path follows a stream which descends in a northerly direction to the Valle de Batisielles. In 30 to 40 minutes, at around 2000m, you emerge into a lush, though in places marshy, pine-ringed meadow which enfolds the Ibonet Pequeño de Batisielles (1950m), a reedy pond.
      Here you can choose from various camp sites, the best and driest being on the `island' between the two forks of the Río de Batisielles. The only drawback to otherwise idyllic camping is that it's also a favourite grazing area of local cows and consequently the hunting ground of some particularly predatory horse flies. For the tentless, there's a very basic, green metal shelter, sleeping three at a squeeze, on a knoll just to the south-west of the flats.

Day 15: Valle de Batisielles to Refugio de Viadós via Refugio de Estós
5½ to 6½ hours, 15.5km

     A sign on the hut near the Ibón Pequeño de Batisielle's north-west shore reads, somewhat optimistically, `Refugio de Estós, 1 hour 15 minutes'. From there, follow the bright red dots of the forest trail. As you'll soon deduce from the churned up stream crossings and fresh dung, you share the trail with pony trekkers. Be careful not to lose those dots; paths forged by horses, humans and cows diverge, converge and sometimes drift away into nothing, tempting you off course.
      After an initial climb of no more than 10 minutes, there's little net altitude change as you stride through a mixture of pine forest and grassland for the next 1½ hours. The whole way, there are fine vistas across the Valle de Estós to the peaks of Pico de Gías, Pico d'Oô (no typing error!) and the mighty Perdiguero. The Refugio de Estós, perched well above the riverside meadows, comes into sight long before you ford the river and continue up the true left bank.
      The Refugio de Estós (Tel/Fax: 974 55 14 83) – the end of Day 13B – is a model of its kind. The friendly warden Juan Antonio Turmo has run it ever since 1984, when the new building rose from the ashes of a devastating fire. It's the largest refugio in the Pyrenees, with room for 185. Since it's a popular venue for overnighters from Benasque, reservations are essential. It serves drinks, snacks and meals, and has hot showers and its own generator powered by a nearby torrent. It accepts Visa and MasterCard.
      Continue along the path on the north (true left) side of the river, which leads on and up to the Puerto de Gistaín. The Clarabide stream descends southwards down a sheer valley to meet the main Río de Estós watercourse at about 2050m, around an hour above the refugio. It's a pretty spot to rest and replenish water supplies – the last dependable water for quite some time.
      Cross to the south side of the river. From here, it's a rather monotonous westward haul over scree and rock up a long, dry tube of a valley. It's not too arduous, however, if you stick to the red-and-white trail markers since the dusty path snakes smoothly between and around obstacles, avoiding any rock scrambling. The trail reaches the Puerto de Gistaín pass (2592m), also known as Puerto Chistén and Puerto de Chistau, after 2¼ to 2½ hours from the refugio.
      There's really a double pass here, separated by a narrow moor. Soon after the second minor col, cross to the true left bank of the gully which drops steeply westwards. From here until the confluence of streams at Añes Cruces (2060m), you'll never come across a more oversigned stretch of trail. Just about every wayside stone, rock and boulder for the next hour is daubed with numerous sorts of trail markers. The last 10 minutes or so require some attention as the path crosses steep scree.
      At the confluence, cross both tributaries, as well as an upstart little stream to the west (true right) bank of the river, from here on known as the Cinqueta de Añes Cruces. (Editorial Alpina draws the onward trail on the east side of the river, which becomes impassable after only a few hundred metres.) Conspicuous on the hillside is a cabaña, adequate for emergency stays.
      The path is straightforward. As you slowly round the mountain, walking through wide, floral meadows, there are unsurpassed views of the entire west face of Posets. Allow 1½ to 1¾ hours from the confluence to Granjas de Viadós, a hamlet of a dozen or so squat, scattered farmhouses.
      The privately owned Refugio de Viadós (Tel: 974 50 61 63) at 1700m is outstanding. At 700 ptas a night, it's also very reasonable. It has 65 bunks and a cosy bar and dining room. It's a friendly, popular family operation, serving filling meals for a bargain 1300 ptas. You can also buy basic foodstuffs for a modest mark-up. It's staffed from 1 July to 20 September, though the annexe kitchen is always kept open. Out of season, ring %] {974 50 60 82} for reservations.
      The owner, Joaquin Cazcarra, also runs Camping El Forcallo, 1.2km down the hill, which is open from 1 July to 31 August. There's no shop but it has a pleasant bar, where meals cost 1300 ptas.

Day 16: Refugio de Viadós to Valle de Bielsa
5½ to 6½ hours, 20km

     After the challenge of the Posets rim, you deserve this easy, uncomplicated day of attractive walking, primarily through meadow and pine forest. There's an ascent to 2300m, but it's never too strenuous. All in all, it's a gentle prelude to the altogether sterner stuff ahead. Steel yourself, however, for the final unexciting 8.5km descent down a 4WD track from below the Lago de Ordiceto to the Valle de Bielsa. Few 4WDs venture this way so you're unlikely to get a lift.
      From the Refugio de Viadós, follow the road west past the children's summer camp of Virgen Blanca (1.75km), near the confluence of the Añes Cruces and Pez streams.
      It's about 45 minutes from the refugio to La Sargueta turn-off (1540m), 1km downstream from Virgen Blanca. Beside a wooden noticeboard, take the track to the right which, after 30 minutes, ends at a cluster of farms, the Bordas de Lizierte. Here, bear right at a triple fork to mount a steep path and briefly enter the welcome shade of a pine wood. Within 20 to 30 minutes you reach the small pass and meadow of Las Collás, or Las Colladas (1846m).
      The path dips briefly to the Barranco de la Basa as the Cabaña Sallena, the only structure on the hillside, comes into view. The cabaña is very unsanitory and offers emergency accommodation only. The countryside is an appealing mix of piny ravines and turf. A view to the west of the bare Punta Suelza (2973m) provides a sample of the terrain to come.
      The trail passes near a tiny cabaña some 20 minutes beyond Las Collás, then curves above and beyond it. About 30 minutes later – or 2¼ to 2½ hours from the Refugio de Viadós – there's a deep, inviting pool, ideal for a dunk on a hot day. No more than 10 minutes further on is a tiny, solidly built stone shelter which could provide emergency accommodation.
      As you angle your way up the ridge separating the two barrancos, Montarruegos and Sallena, the path undulates a bit before slipping through the Paso d'es Caballos, or Collada de Ordiceto (2326m), 3½ to four hours into the day. If you want to stay up high, there are some wonderful [camp sites] in the meadows before the pass.
      Just beyond is the dirt access road which leads left to the Lago de Ordiceto (2390m) with its stark and grimly rocky terrain – not really worth a detour. There are, however, a few flat spots here for a camp site if you want to postpone the next stage along the road.
      Otherwise, turn right down the dirt road, then almost immediately left onto a path which cuts off a couple of long zigzags before rejoining the 4WD track 30 minutes later. After another 30 minutes on the track, take a path which runs beside a small dam and hydroelectric station and soon rejoins the 4WD track. From here on it's a slog, albeit with pleasant views, all the way down to the main highway, the Carretera de Francia, 1.5km north of the small hamlet of Parzán.

Day 17: Valle de Bielsa to Valle de Pineta
5½ to 6 hours, 16km

     The route follows the GR11, giving spectacular views of the Valle de Pineta valley and its impressive cirque, the Circo de Pineta, as well as across to the Sierra de las Tucas. After an ascent of almost exactly 1000m to the Collada de Pietramula, it's an undemanding walk all the way down to the base of the Circo de Pineta.
      Less than 500m north of Parzán, turn left off the Carretera de Francia and follow the sealed track until you reach the small hamlet of Chisagües 45 minutes later. It's a relief so early in the day to leave behind the noise and fumes of the passing traffic. Continue along the same graded track, originally constructed to serve the long-abandoned silver and lead mines above Chisagües. A steady and uneventful rise of 600m over 6km along the Río Real brings you to the Fuente de Pietramula. Not long afterwards, you need to leave the track to ford the Río Real.
      Work your way southwards up the Barranco de las Coronetas to reach the Collada de Pietramula, or Piedramula (2150m), after a further 50 to 60 minutes. From here on, it's flat or a gentle slope downhill as far as a hut at the eastern limit of the Llanos de Estiva (where `llano' in Spanish means plain). Pass the hut to your right.
      The descent becomes steeper as you approach the Barranco de las Opacas. Turn sharp left (south-west) to meet a cart track and dilapidated hut near the Llanos de la Larri (1560m), about 1¾ to two hours from the col. From here, it's about 30 minutes down through a wood of beech trees to the small chapel of Nuestra Señora de Pineta (1250m) and its adjacent fountain. At the head of the Valle de Pineta, you've a choice of accommodation.

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