Days 18–19

A vertiginous ascent to the Collado de Añisclo. A stepped descent of the impressive upper Añisclo valley, recovering height via the Barranco de Fon Blanca before dropping down to the Valle de Ordesa canyon.

The Valle de Ordesa was designated a national park in 1918. In 1982 its boundaries were expanded significantly to incorporate Monte Perdido, the head of the Valle de Pineta and large slices of the valleys of Escuaín and Añisclo. The park, renamed the Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido, now occupies an area of 15,600 hectares.

The two days it takes to cross the national park from the Valle de Pineta are perhaps the most spectacular of the whole Pyrenean Traverse. And the trip shouldn't be restricted to two days if your schedule permits, since the park itself merits more than a couple of days exploration. Consider basing yourself in Torla at the end of this walk for a night or two longer. We grade this walk as medium-hard because of the taxing Day 18. Days 19A or 19B, though demanding in places, are considerably less arduous.

The three major valleys of the massif, Ordesa, Pineta and Gavarnie, were scoured into their typical U shape during the Quaternary period by giant glaciers. Underground, rainwater and frost have eroded the softer limestone. The hillsides are pockmarked with caves, potholes and underground streams, attracting cavers from all over Europe.

For details of the park's visitors centre, see Information Sources under Information in the introduction to the Aragonese Pyrenees section earlier in this chapter.

Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido
(Days 18 & 19 of the Pyrenean Traverse)

Maps

When to Walk

What to Bring

WARNINGS

Places to Stay & Eat

Getting To/From the Walk

THE WALK (see map 3, map 4)
Day 18: Valle de Pineta to Valle de Añisclo
5 to 6½ hours, 7.5km

     Make no mistake, today's a tough, strenuous one which will have you clambering over fallen trees (the whole of the wood on the southern flank of the Valle de Pineta is ailing) and negotiating a minor landslide. Statistically speaking, the climb from the Pineta valley bottom to the Collado de Añisclo represents a vertical climb of just under 1200m in almost exactly 2km of walking (or scrambling).
      Regard the sign `Collado de Añisclo' on the sealed road some 200m east of the Refugio de Pineta as a cruel joke. If you follow its finger to the broad riverbed, you'll merely be adding your traces to the footprints of those who've floundered before you, seeking a way through the impenetrable shrubs and thickets.
      Instead, take a broad path westwards from the refugio. After no more than 200m, a sign pointing across the river proclaims `Añisclo 3 horas' (Añisclo 3 hours). This sign has its (at best) playful dimension, since with a full backpack it will take you as much as an hour longer to reach the col.
      It's boots and socks off to ford the river, aiming just left of a waterfall on the far bank. The alternative is to take the GR11, which crosses to the true right bank by way of the bridge beside the Camping Municipal, then turns left to follow it. Once over the river, pick up this well blazed trail and turn left along it.
      One hour after leaving the refugio, cross a wide stream. Fill your water bottles here as there's no more water until you're over the Añisclo pass. Shortly after the halfway mark, the path intersects with the enviably flat Faja de Tormosa route which contours around from the Circo de Pineta to your right. As the trees begin to thin out and become more stunted, you'll notice a disproportionate number lying dead. These trees aren't victims of disease or insects; the slope is renowned for its springtime avalanches which sweep everything but the most pliable, resilient vegetation before them.
      Walking times to the Collado de Añisclo (2470m), with its fine views of the head of the Valle de Añisclo canyon, vary enormously; you may find you've taken rather more than four hours. If you're running short of energy, no more than 50 to 100m below the ridge is an unspoilt spot with water and some level turf for a camp site.
     Within 10 minutes of walking from the pass, it's decision time, the high road or the low road: the original GR11 route via the Puntas de las Olas traverse, or the more trodden variant down the Añisclo canyon. We've chosen not to cover the former in this chapter and unless you're an experienced mountaineer we strongly recommend you avoid it too (see the boxed text `The GR11 Backtracks'). Should you opt for it, take particular care when negotiating the tranche which requires cable support when there's snow around – which is most of the year. The traverse as far as the Collado Superior de Góriz takes between two and 2¼ hours.
     We equally strongly recommend the GR11 variant via the alluring Valle de Añisclo, despite losing some 750m in altitude, both because it's safer and for its own sake. A series of gentle descents – each ending in a waterfall with a pool deep enough to bathe in and a green stretch of grass, alpine flowers and a choice of camp sites at every giant step – make the upper valley one of the major highlights of the whole Pyrenees crossing. It's advisable to stay higher as the area around the Case de los Cazadores, further down the valley, tends to fill up with campers as sunset approaches.
      The squat, dry hut of Casa de los Cazadores (The Hunters' House) is 1½ to 1¾ hours from the col. It can accommodate five snuggled close together. Just beyond it is a rocky overhang that provides shelter for a similar number.

Alternative Camp Sites
     Should you have any energy left when you reach the Casa de los Cazadores, consider continuing for a further 1¼ hours or so as far as the alpine meadows above the bare rock of the Barranco de Fon Blanca (see Day 19A). This will leave you drained but it will allow you to descend to the Pradera de Ordesa comfortably the following day via the more attractive Faja de Pelay route (see Day 19B).

Day 19A: Valle de Añisclo to Pradera de Ordesa via the Lower Route
5½ to 6½ hours, 16.5km

     Steel yourself to rejoin the madding crowd. After an ascent to the Collado Superior de Góriz, the route drops via the teeming Refugio de Góriz to the floor of the Valle de Ordesa. As you approach the shuttle bus terminal at Pradera de Ordesa, tourists seem almost to outnumber the trees.
      The day begins with a steep scree scrabble, just below the spectacular Cascada de Fon Blanca waterfall. As you continue to ascend the gaunt, narrow valley of the Barranco de Fon Blanca (also known as the Barrance Arrablo), the steepness eases markedly. After a little under 45 minutes, cross to the true right bank of the shallow stream, filling your water bottles as you do so; Ordesa is strictly limestone and surface water is at a premium away from the valley bottom.
      One to 1¼ hours after leaving the Valle de Añisclo, after a brief south-westerly traverse, the path leaves behind the uniform grey rock of the canyon and emerges into a green alpine meadow – a perfect camp site, shared only by marmots.
      A short while later, there's a final, four-limbed climb, no more than five minutes long, up the face of a bluff with plenty of hand and footholds. Once you heave yourself over the ridge, it's pleasant upland striding all the way to the Collado Superior de Góriz, or Collado Arrablo (2343m). This is reached two to 2¼ hours into the day. From your right (east) the GR11 path from the Punta de las Olas traverse (see the boxed text `The GR11 Backtracks' earlier in this walk) enters, deceptively innocuous in its final stage.
      From the saddle you have good views of the summits to the north. From right to left these include the Punta de las Olas (3002m), the Sum de Ramond (also called the Pico de Añisclo; 3254m), the Morrón de Arrablo (or Torre de Góriz; 2792m) and, lording it over all, Monte Perdido (3355m).
      Allow around 45 minutes to get down to the Refugio de Góriz along the path, having walked a total of 2½ to three hours from the Casa de los Cazadores.
      About 15 minutes beyond the Collado Superior de Góriz are several fine camp sites where a large stream flows through a meadow.
      Once you've reached the Refugio de Góriz (Tel: 974 34 12 01), you may well wonder why you've bothered. Multilingual signs inform you, at the risk of stating the very obvious, ‘This isn't a hotel or a bar or a restaurant', and with commendable directness, ‘Those camping can't use any of the refugio's services'. Such a proscription, however, doesn't apply to their drinks, snacks or, if you're lucky enough to be able to order one, meals.
      The staff are pleasant enough, but the refugio is under enormous pressure to accommodate the large numbers of visitors to the area, particularly during July and August. You may need to reserve both meals and sleeping space as much as a month in advance. The environs of the refugio are like an earthquake disaster zone from early afternoon onwards, with tents – which you can't erect until nightfall – and bodies everywhere.
      It makes sense to overnight here if you're planning to use the refugio as a base for a day walk to the summit of Monte Perdido. Otherwise, however, head down the valley to the Pradera de Ordesa, between three and four hours away.
      A little more than 30 minutes from the hut, heading due south on the blazed trail, the path divides in two. At around the 1900m contour, the more evident route bears right just above the Circo de Soaso. The GR11, on this occasion prudence itself, describes a zigzagging course down the valley's south-eastern flank. Some 20 to 25 minutes down the switchbacks the trail again divides. Take the path to the right which descends to the valley bottom and ends up downstream from the Cascada de Cola de Caballo. The path straight ahead is the beginning of the Day 19B alternative route.
      Whichever way you reach the valley floor, the waterfall is a pleasant place for a break. From here onwards, you won't lack company for a moment.
      After about 45 minutes the canyon begins to lose some of its characteristic glacial U shape and the forest becomes more dense.
      Passing by the Gradas de Soaso, a series of natural steps down which the Río Arazas tumbles, another 30 minutes brings you to the signed turn-off for the Faja de Canarellos and Circo de Cotatuero (see the side trip from Pradera de Ordesa to Cascada de Cotatuera at the end of Day 19B). Beyond Cascadas de la Cueva and del Estrecho waterfalls – both good spots for a breather – cross to the stream's south bank via the Puente de Arripes. Soon after, the Mirador del Paso de los Bucardos provides excellent views towards the cliffs of the Salarons and Cotatuero peaks.
      Continue along the south-bank path, a less crowded variant of the trail on the other side of the valley. At the junction with the Senda de los Cazadores trail, the final stage of the Day 19B alternative route, cross back over the river to reach the Pradera de Ordesa. The car park – these days satisfyingly devoid of all private cars – is the terminus for the Torla shuttle bus (for details of bus times, see Getting to/from the Walk in the introduction to the Panticosa & Beyond walk later in this section). Total time from the Refugio de Góriz is from less than three to four hours. If you'd prefer to continue the walk until Torla, follow the route description in the side trip below.
     If you've been on dehydrated goo for the past two days, Bar-Restaurante La Pradera de Ordesa, with its rich variety of tapas and bocadillos, icy-cold draught beer and a menú del día at 1500 ptas, is a small gastronomic paradise.

Day 19B: Valle de Añisclo to Pradera de Ordesa via Faja de Pelay
7 to 8 hours, 17.5km

     `Faja' in Spanish means belt or band and accurately describes this contour-hugging path, high above the Valle de Ordesa. The route follows it from just south of the Circo de Soaso as far as the Mirador de Calcilarruego, where you launch yourself on the steep descent down the Senda de los Cazadores, the Hunters' Track.
      Follow the Day 19A route description as far as the point, well below the Refugio de Góriz, where that route to the valley bottom bears away right and downhill to the valley bottom. Instead, continue straight with no loss of height to join the main Faja de Pelay path coming up from the meadows of the Circo de Soaso.
      As you join it, disregard the potentially unnerving sign ‘¡Atención! Senda Muy Peligroso: Hielo y Aludes' (Beware! Extremely Dangerous Path: Ice and Avalanches), which certainly isn't applicable in summertime.
      After the hard, uphill work of the previous 1½ days, the Faja is an immensely enjoyable stroll. The path twists its way around one incised ravine after another, rarely rising above 1900m. The whole way, except where obscured by trees, the views are magnificent. Keep your eyes focused on the middle ground as well as the canyon and mountain scenery. On this less trodden trail you stand a good chance of spotting sarrio, as chamois are known in Aragonese, and if you're very lucky, the Pyrenean goat (see the boxed text on the following page).
      From where you join the Faja de Pelay, allow between 2¼ and 2½ hours to reach the Mirador de Calcilarruego and the adjacent refugio with its windows broken and fireplace clogged by bags of reeking rubbish. Not a place in which to linger.
     In the next 1¼ hours or so the path drops 600m on the tight switchbacks of the Senda de los Cazadores, as mountain pine and fir trees gradually give way to silent, shaded beech wood. As you emerge from the wood, turn left to reach the service area and shuttle bus terminus of the Pradera de Ordesa within 10 minutes. To continue to Torla on foot takes another two hours. For a description of the route, see the side trip at the end of Day 19A.

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